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Court uniform and dress in the Empire of Japan : ウィキペディア英語版
Court uniform and dress in the Empire of Japan

The official , used from the Meiji period until the end of the Second World War, consisted of European-inspired clothing in the Empire style. It was first introduced at the beginning of the Meiji period and maintained through the institution of the constitutional monarchy by the Meiji Constitution, and represented the highest uniforms in use at the time. Uniforms for members of the kazoku peerage and civil officials were officially set.
== History ==

When the Meiji Restoration began, those working to build the new government were wearing a diverse array of different clothing based on their social status during the previous Edo period. Nobles had their court wear and informal , samurai had the distinct and dress, and members of Westernized military forces had their Western-style uniforms. For example, during the Emperor's visit to Tokyo in 1868, opinions were divided between the high officials Nakayama Tadayasu and Date Munenari. Nakayama argued that ''ikan'' should be worn only when departing and when entering the castle, while ''kariginu'' would be worn en route; Date held that ''kariginu'' should be worn only when entering the castle, with and ''hitatare'' both allowed en route. As a result, it was decided that both ''kariginu'' and ''hitatare'' would be allowed en route, with ''ikan'' also permitted when entering the castle. Furthermore, the colors and designs on the ''ikan'', ''kariginu'', and ''hitatare'' were all unique to each individual, destroying the visual unity of the procession. Meanwhile, the soldiers guarding it were dressed in Western-style uniforms, but were not at all accustomed to the clothing. Ernest Satow commented that their slovenly appearances ruined the solemnity of the procession. This lack of uniformity was once again evident on the Emperor's repeat visit the next year.〔
The situation was clearly untenable, and so after the election of officials to the new government in summer 1869, the Minister of Justice Saga Saneharu was put in charge of the problem. In a meeting of the legislature that winter, Iwakura Tomomi proposed deliberation over the court dress for governmental officials that Saga and his helpers had come up with. However, as this design was based on the former dress of court nobles, it met with opposition from those of samurai descent. In order to resolve this disorder, the was released on October 17, 1871. In order to quiet the kazoku still attached to traditional styles of dress, the order claimed that ''ikan'' and similar kinds of clothing were weak, and Japan should go back to the styles of the time of Emperor Jimmu and Empress Jingū. The "styles of that time" meant tight sleeves and narrow hakama, and so the order implied that Western-style dress, complying to these standards, had much in common with the essential garb of the Japanese themselves. Calling back to the spirit of Jimmu's legendary founding of the country, it appealed for the creation of a new uniform.〔
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On December 12, 1872, the Dajō-kan released an edict〔Dajō-kan Edict No. 339 of December 12, 1872. . (View here. )〕 implementing regulations for the uniforms of civil officials and nobles, and on December 29 of that year another edict〔Dajō-kan Edict No. 373 of December 29, 1872. . (View here. )〕 determined regulations for their wearing. The new official uniforms were indeed designed based on the court uniforms used in Europe at the time. The first of these edicts also designated white tie dress as the court dress of choice for those not entitled to any particular court uniform, such as private citizens.
The uniforms for members of the Imperial Family were first decided by an edict of the Dajō-kan on February 22, 1873, and then updated in 1876 and 1911.
After the Peerage Act of July 7, 1884, divided the existing kazoku into five ranks, the Ministry of the Imperial Household further established the uniforms for these new subcategories. On October 29 of the same year, another edict of the Dajō-kan created gown-type court uniforms for senior officials within palace agencies like the Board of Chamberlains and Board of Ceremonies. From 1888 to 1889, various other personnel were outfitted with uniforms and assigned court uniforms. The Imperial Household Agency's uniforms underwent major changes in 1911 and 1928.
On June 23, 1886, provisions were set to determine formal Western wear for women. In order from most to least formal, these were the ''manteau de cour'', ''robe décolletée'', ''robe mi-décolletée'', and ''robe montante''.〔
On December 4 of the same year, the designs of the court uniforms for civil officials were modified, but the designs for junior officials were not updated. Because the officials were responsible for providing their own court uniforms, the cost had been too much for junior officials. From this point on, junior civil officials wore standard white tie court dress. The difference in price was extreme: when the official Kikuchi Takeo ordered both a three-piece suit and his court uniform at the same shop, the suit cost 28 yen and the uniform 220 yen.〔
On March 2, 1908, an Imperial edict established substitute court uniforms for diplomats dispatched to the tropics or very hot areas. Later, on September 29, 1926, another Imperial edict established alternate court uniforms and court dress for Japanese officials in the South Pacific. All of these consisted of white tunics. Old news footage shows officials of the South Pacific Mandate, including Kōki Hirota, in these clothes.〔Kōki Hirota is seen in Japan News (No. 111 ) and (No. 166 ); in (No. 24 )〕
Though their names differed, naval and military officers also had dress corresponding to court uniforms. Unlike civil officials, military officials were allowed to wear their uniforms to personal ceremonies such as marriages and funerals.
These various kinds of court uniforms continued to be used at court functions and ceremonies even into the Shōwa period, at events like the Imperial enthronement and the first visit of Emperor of Manchukuo Puyi to Japan.〔(Video of Puyi's welcome at Tokyo Station )(YouTube)〕 However, as the strain of war continued, opportunities for their use became rarer and rarer. When Mitsumasa Yonai became Prime Minister during the Second Sino-Japanese War, his morning dress could not be tailored in time for the appointment, and he wore a naval uniform in its place at his official investiture.〔Concerned that becoming prime minister while still an active naval officer would infringe upon the Emperor's supreme command authority, Yonai transferred to the first reserve. His naval full uniform is on display at the (Morioka Memorial Museum of Great Predecessors ).〕
After the war, Imperial Household Agency edicts and the pertinent Dajō-kan edicts were abolished, on May 2, 1947,〔Imperial Household Ordinance No. 12 of May 2, 1947. 〕 and July 1, 1954,〔Law No. 203 of July 1, 1954. 〕 respectively. The Empire of Japan's court uniforms disappeared with them, but similar male uniforms do remain in use around the world, including in France, various South American countries, and Thailand.

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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